Soups

Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add leek and fennel and a large pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until fully softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Stir in stock and bring to a simmer.

Stir in asparagus and tarragon. Bring to a simmer and cook for 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, remove a dozen asparagus tips from the pot, split them in half lengthwise, and set them aside for garnish. Continue simmering soup for 5 to 6 minutes longer. Stir in lemon juice.

Blend soup using a handheld immersion blender, or in batches using a countertop blender, until it's as smooth as you like. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper and serve, garnishing with reserved asparagus tips, crème fraîche (if using), more chopped tarragon, fennel fronds, and more extra-virgin olive oil.